Bulgari – Octo Finissimo 2022 – GMT Magazine
Is this the last of the records? Maybe. In ten years of an extraordinary saga, Bvlgari has shattered all the existing codes in the field of ultra-thin watches. The aesthetic codes on the one hand, with these tense and edgy modern lines that could only be achieved by a well-controlled Italian excess. And technical codes, on the other hand, with a succession of thinness world records covering all categories (automatic watch, tourbillon, GMT chronograph, etc.). After this turbulent adolescence, the Octo Finissimo seems to be entering a more considered era. With eight world records in ten years, Bvlgari has nothing left to prove. The creations unveiled this fall testify to a maturity and a desire to build a lasting watchmaking cathedral. Still as dazzling, but without stunning feats individually. Expressive, but more explosive.
New skeleton 8 days
The latest Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days embodies this progressive shift. Bvlgari no longer works the discs for themselves, but rather opts for technique in the service of aesthetics. Witness the monumental 8-day power reserve. If informed connoisseurs will note the XXL format of the barrel which alone occupies a quarter of the watch, the power reserve complication is discreet, blending into the curve of the small seconds. It is hands-free and has a dial whose scale gradually decreases, a touch of coquetry indulged in by its designer Fabrizio Buonamassa, a lover of beautiful cars.
Its dial marks a new aesthetic in the Octo Finissimo line: it is resolutely openworked and its matt anthracite appearance contrasts nicely with the 40 mm case in satin-brushed and polished rose gold. It has the same taut lines and the same geometric strength, but stands out for the contrast between the gray and gold tones, the satin and brushed finishes. A complex but perfectly legible timepiece produced in a non-limited edition.
Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days © Bulgari
GMT chronograph: pink gold is making a comeback
In the family of world records, number five is an outstanding model: the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 2018 powered by Caliber BVL 318 measuring just 3.30 mm thick. This timepiece was a UFO with two rarely combined complications (chronograph + GMT) within an extra-thin construction that usually housed neither.
Only three years after its appearance, the timepiece returns in a new interpretation: a satin-brushed pink gold case framing a brown lacquered dial. The combination of gold and chocolate tones is not new, but rare in an Octo Finissimo collection which has built its reputation on more modern materials, such as titanium or carbon. Fitted with a leather strap, this new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is distinguished by its resolutely modern spirit with its taut lines and sculptural case, yet eminently classic with its gold case and brown crocodile leather strap. The same goes for its proportions: a very contemporary diameter of 43 mm, combined with an extremely moderate thickness of only 8.75 mm. A narrow path perfectly negotiated by Bvlgari, which confirms its art of merging content and form, aesthetics and technique, tradition and modernity, into a homogeneous, coherent and unique whole. A timepiece for aesthetes that also has a permanent and unlimited place in the company’s watch collections.
Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic © Bulgari
Octo Finissimo GMT Call for collectors
Connoisseurs will be delighted to find that the Geneva Watch Days have reserved their fair share of limited-edition timepieces. Besides their rarity, these timepieces are both very attractive products and wise investments.
There will be a lot of gold on the latest Octo Finissimo Automatic, but not for everyone: the yellow gold version is a limited edition of 50 pieces to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first Bvlgari boutique in the United States, while the rose gold one is not limited.
In both cases, Bvlgari expresses its favorite horological theme: the balance between sobriety and prowess. An understatement, because the two timepieces display nothing but central hands and a small seconds at 7 o’clock, the purest of Bvlgari dials. If this timepiece is distinguished by its classicism and its sobriety, a feeling of prowess is nevertheless present. First of all, it embodies horological prowess with a timepiece that does not exceed 6.4 mm in thickness, an area of extreme finesse that Bvlgari has dominated for ten years. Next, it’s a design feat, with a timepiece available in a 100% gold version (case and bracelet). A model that celebrates a certain Italian extravagance: ultra-thin, ultra-chic, ultra-shiny and ultra-rare.
Octo Finissimo Automatic Limited Edition © Bulgari
From Rome to Tokyo
Two years ago, the name of a Japanese architect thrilled the watchmaking world: Tadao Ando. Until then unknown to most watch collectors, he was no less recognized in the world of urban art for his constructions of extreme purity based on glass and concrete. This interplay of materials, volumes and contrasts naturally seduced Bvlgari, inspiring an Octo Finissimo dedicated to three hands and without indexes. The limited edition hours (200 in titanium and only 8 in carbon with tourbillon) sell out in a few hours.
Octo Finissimo Automatic Sejima Edition © Bulgari
This year, a woman is honoured, the architect Kazuyo Sejima who is also Japanese. Drawing on its experience, Bvlgari has decided to think even bigger, with a 360-piece edition. Also working on the contrast between material and transparency, visible and invisible, the architect designed this Octo Finissimo Sejima edition to reflect the codes that run through his work.
The model is characterized by the strong mirror effect of the sapphire crystal dial, enriched with a dot pattern also designed by the artist. The case and bracelet are made of polished steel: an extremely reflective treatment resembling the glass of skyscrapers, but the wearer must take care not to scratch its surface. The case itself, specially designed for this model, reproduces this mirror effect. A disconcerting and audacious creation that takes the Octo Finissimo away from its Roman architectural codes to explore the modernity of Japanese megalopolises.
As a reader of WorldTempus, we are delighted to bring you the latest digital version of this GMT magazine which you can download here as well as the GPHG catalogue. Good reading!
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